Notes on Assignment 3:

 Fabric Collages:

I have visited a local fabric shop and collected 4 small bags of fabric samples they were happy to part with for £1 a bag. I chose wide variety of fabrics (almost 50 pieces), in as many colours and patterns available. Working with ready fabrics has its own challenges. It took me longer to do this exercise. It is funny how one can get frustrated so easily doing fabric collages. Despite all the variety, matching colours and patterns was not an easy task. Not quite the right shade; not quite the right pattern. I felt I had less control, especially when trying to follow a drawing/design. However challenging myself to match fabrics was useful. I let go, allowing the fabric at hand to take the stage. Some worked, some didn’t. I guess you need to do lots more to have a better intuition and feel.

Saadet Payne - Fabric Collages

I have done several collages: one with a fabrics with the same colour with neighbouring hues; one with mixed media emulating one of my drawings; one with more geometric shapes (quilting in mind); and one without a plan or drawing.

Appliqué:

I am apprehensive about this exercise. It is my first go and previous fabric collages made me uneasy. So I decided to go simple. First try is a Matisse inspired appliqué. I used plain felt fabric in vibrant colours, and simple circle shapes. I think this can evolve to be a cushion.

Saadet Payne - Aplique 1

For my second attempt, I am using my the angle fish drawing. I chose fabrics that mimic qualities of fish skin: textured and shimmery. I decided to use more subtle colours then bright ones. I didn’t have the ‘right’ fabric for the background so I painted one. I tried to to capture the shapes that define the character of the angelfish. I am using bondaweb for the first time and loving it. It makes the process much quicker and easier. I used only 2-3 stitches (running, zigzag and satin). I sew it all together with slow speed to have more control.I am quite surprised how well it went and rather proud with the result.

Saadet Payne Aplique 2

Saadet Payne - Angel Fish

Fabric Manipulation:

I attempted to do a variety of fabric manipulation techniques. Different fabric behaves with similar methods. Eg: Folding/pleating velvet creates a more sculpt and solid surface whereas folding sheer fabric results in changes of its transparency and preserves its fluidity.

I watched a fair amount of online videos to learn see methods in action. One of them was layering and stitching fabrics together and cutting/slashing to reveal layers. This is a great technique to use up scrap fabric pieces and threads. I did two samples using this technique:  one completely unplanned, go-with the flow piece and one with more consideration. One can see the difference!

I used is slashing technique on jersey. Using cut strips as a yarn I pleated to have a knitted effect.

The next is developed from my tree-bark drawing. To capture its surface qualities I purchased Tyvek and Lutradur. When heat is applied both materials form organic shapes, bubbles and tears. I painted them first and using iron and heat gun I worked their surface. I collaged them with plain fabrics and stitched them together with sewing machine. I had a go at free machine embroidery to enhance its texture. I stopped after breaking 3 needles! Apparently Tyvrek is too hard for it (and it is a common problem). When the feed dog is up and the sewing speed is slow I managed to stitch on it. Not the same effect I wanted, though. Well it was not meant to be. Maybe I need to use a different weight of Tyvek. I will try to get back to it.

I carried on using heat to manipulate synthetic fabrics (organza, chiffon) as a quick experiment.

For the final sample, I worked from my drawing, which was produced from a fishing net picture. I chose a fabric woven with two colours (warp light brown/weft shinny blue).  I used folding, tucking, moulding, cutting and fraying taking the drawing as a reference. I used fraying in two directions to reveal two different coloured yarns. I added and stitched 3 different coloured fabrics moulded similarly to get closer to the feel of the drawing. My main objective was to use the qualities and the structure of the fabric and apply the techniques to see how it responds. The final result is quite different from the starting point. But I am happy with the movement, colour, and contrasting shapes I managed to create in it. 

Saadet Payne - Fabric Manipulation

Saadet Payne - Fishing Net Inspired Drawing

For future I would also like to try smocking (Canadian smocking). 

Reflections:

Compared to stitching, working directly with fabric produces more sculpted surface structures with more depth, creates shadows and alters its shape dramatically. A fair amount of though and care need to go into understanding your fabric, its own qualities, pattern, colour, structure and how it reacts to manipulation and how works together with other fabrics.

I both tried a ‘free flow no plan’ approach (using scrap fabric pieces, collages) and planned approach (angelfish appliqué, tree bark, fishing net).  Both has benefits and obstructions. Appliqué required more ‘stick to the plan’ approach whereas fabric manipulation needed more freedom. The techniques sometimes took over and affected the final result. It is expected because fabric is a different medium (then drawing) and hence a different visual outcome. Therefore worrying to capture source image exactly is unnecessary. You need certain amount of control but also flexibility to let things happen.

I think to produce good results with no plan approach you need to master the techniques much more; a lot practise need.

I am reading Textiles Today by C Colchester and The Textile book by C Gale and J Kaur) for the research points. I'll post my thoughts and findings very soon. 

I am off to my second study visit to London "New Designers Fair" on 28th June. I am looking forward to find out about contemporary textile market. 

Thanks for stopping by to share my textile learning experience.